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Installing the Pulse Generator Board 

(Model 2110)

 

   

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Thank you for your purchase of our Model 2110 PULSE Generator Board.
 
If you have any comments or need additional information on the use of the
Pulse Generator Board, please write us at:
 
 
Since we introduced the 2040 USB/20 Button INTERFACE, I received many emails asking for a simple; less complicated way of wiring a standard SPST Toggle Switch to the board without building the Opto-Isolator H11AA1/2 pulsing circuit.
 
So, as of today, Desktop Aviator introduces an easy add-on circuit board that creates the 1/4 second pulses that the H11AA1/2 circuit accompished but without the many hours or wiring and soldering.

 
INSTALLATION
 
Installing the PULSE GENERATOR is really no problem at all. The Model 2110 was designed to be used with our 2040 USB/20 Button INTERFACE. All you need do is to plug the 17x2 Ribbon Cable between the Pulse Generator and the 2040 Interface.
 
 
With the 2110 Board positioned as seen above, take the Ribbon Cable and place the cable onto the J4 connector. Note the RED Tracer is to be towards the top of the board.
 
 
Now, take the other side of the Ribbon Cable and carefully place it on the J1 Connector of the 2040 Interface Board as seen above.
 
 
 
What you get is pictured above; both boards mated via the Ribbon Cable
Connection to your computer's USB Port is made by a Series "B" USB Cable
connected to the 2040 Interface Board.
 
Notice that J2 is still available for wiring 10 Spring Return Push Button Switches.
 
Please note that the 2110 Pulse Generator can NOT be placed on the J2 connector of the 2040.
 

 
 
INSTALLING the Switches
 
Connecting the switches to the 2110 board is made via the J3 17x2 connector located on the left side of the board. For "Simple Wiring", each switch needs a two-wire connection to J3. For ten Switches this means that the first 10 pair of J3 pins are used. The remaining pins on the J3 are not needed at this time.
 
Below is a photo of the J3 connector and how each switch is connected.
 
 
 
 
Wiring Toggle Switches
 
 
Below is a drawing on wiring a SPST Toggle Switch. Soldering just two wires is all it takes to get the 2110 up and running. To make the process even simplier, we also included ten 1x2 female connectors (see photo to left). The wires from the toggle switch is soldered to the two pins on this connector. It is strongly recommended that shrink tubing or some other insulation be used on the connector. The spacing on the connector is only 0.1 inches, so creating a wire short or solder bridge is a very real possibility.
 
 
 
Using this simple circuit, build 9 more Toggle Switch Assemblies. When wired, it's time to install the switches to the 2110 Generator.
 
Below is another photo of the J3 Connector on the 2110 board. Here you can see the pin number configuration  of J3. In order for the 2110 board to sense the closure or opening of a toggle switch, a 5 VDC signal must be delivered to the PIC chips. Pins 1,3,5,7,9,11,13,15,17,19 are all connected to +5V. These pins can be called the "Common" connections while pins 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18,20 are called the "Control" connections.
 
So for the 2110 board to sense a switch closure, you must short anyone of the "Common" pins to any of the "Control" connections.
 
So, this being the case, complex Aircraft Panel designs need to bring ONLY ONE "Common" wire from the 2110 board (any of these- 1,3,5,7,9,11,13,15,19 from J3) and 10 "Control" wires. (2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18,20 from J3). 
 
 
Below is a drawing on doing just that. This photo depicts 5 Toggle Switches with its center
terminals all soldered together and then soldered to any of the +5VDC "Common" Pins of the J3 connector (either pin 1 or 3 or 5 or 7 or 9 or 11or 13 or 15 or 17 or 19)

Now solder either end terminal (Shown in Black) to J3's "Control" Pins. As seen above, these Control pins are pin 2, pin 4, pin 6, pin 8 and pin 10. Needless to say, you can also solder additional toggle switches to the remain 5 control pins (pins 12, 14, 16, 18, 20).
 
The photo above shows I used a toggle switch called a SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw). These switches too can be used without any adverse efects to the circuit. These SPDT switches can be purchased in any electronics store. Just make sure you purchase the switches that DO NOT HAVE A CENTER OFF POSITION.
 
Wiring Mechanical Rotary Switches
 
I've shown you wiring a SPST and a SPDT Togle Switch to the 2110 board, but what about Mechanical Rotary Switches? No Problem. As you already know, the flightdeck of a 737, 767, 747 ect also have rotary switches to select between flight functions. Below is a drawing on how we can wire the 2100 board to a 5 position Mechanical Rotary Switch (You can also use switches with less then 5 positions or one with more then 5 but less then 10 positions).
 
 
Just like the wiring of multiple Toggle Switches seen above, we can use just 1 "Common" wire (+5VDC) and 5 "Control" wires. Take a Rotary Switch and turn it over to look at the side with the solder terminals. You will see something similar to the photo above. 
 
The common terminal of the rotary switch is soldered to any of the "Common" wires on the 2110's J3 connector, while all the "Control" wires are soldered to the switches "select" output terminals. That's all there is to it. If you have a rotary switch with more then 5 positions, just continue soldering wires to J3's remaining "Control" pins.
 
When purchasing a Mechanical Rotary Switch for your panel, NO NOT get one called a "MAKE BEFORE BREAK". This type of switch connects the next terminal to its common pin before breaking its connection with the previous terminal. You need to purchase a switch called a "BREAK BEFORE MAKE".
 
Also note that the 2110 board will create a two pulses for each position selected by the rotary switch. For Example, say you have the rotary switch in its #1 position and you want to turn it to its #2; the 2100 Board will create a pulse upon leaving the #1 position before creating another pulse when in its #2 position. In other words, the 2100 will create one pulse when you flip to a rotary position and create a second pulse when you leave that position for another.
 
Adding LEDs
 
Some of you might want to add an LED light to turn ON when the Flight Function is activated. This can be very easily done as you can see from the photo below.
 
 
One inexpensive RED or GREEN LED (Light Emitting Diode) and one 330 ohm Carbon Resistor is all it takes.
 
As seen above, the FLAT side of the LED (LED Casing) is soldered to the GND point on the 2040 USB Interface while the Round side is wired to the outside terminal of the toggle switch through a small 330 ohm resistor. Now when you flip the toggle UP, the +5VDC not only goes to the 2110 board as a control signal, it also powers the LED which is now directly across the 5 volt power delivered to the boards via the computer's USB Port.
 
If you wish to have multiple LEDs on your panel, just connect all of the LED's (flat side) together, then taking one wire from this LED common point to the GND of the 2040 board. The other side of all the LEDs are to be soldered to the outter terminal of the remaining toggle switches.

 
 

 

UNDER CONSTRUCTION
More Information to be added in
the Near Future.
 
 

 
 
 HAPPY FLYING!
 
 

Purchasing Information for the Model 2090, can be found at: